Sunday, July 27, 2008

The Dutch Boat's Repaired Rudder

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Juneau

Wednesday found us motoring up through the Gastineau Channel to Juneau, where we found a slip at Harris Harbor just north of town and beyond the Doughlas Bridge (Whew—that was a close one!). Sirena came in later in the afternoon. We had a good time visiting aboard their boat.

Of course it has been raining a bit. We trudged to the Laundromat in a downpour. We bagged our clean and dry laundry in plastic bags for the home trip.( I am putting a small plastic bag over my purse on these weepy days.)

Juneau is small and isolated for a state capitol but it has a few things going for it. Its setting is gorgeous between the channel and several high mountains. The big cruise ships come here.

On Saturday, an overcast but not rainy day, we took the bus downtown and then the tram up to Mt. Roberts. We had a good time viewing the visitor’s center and hiking the alpine trails. As we were descending the mountain we could see the USS Juneau coming into port with seamen in their dress white standing on the decks of the ship.

We stopped for dinner at the Hanger Restaurant before walking up to see the ship. On the way to the Coast Guard Pier we spied out Dutch friends at a neighboring dock! They had all the necessary repairs done in Wrangell and were now continuing their voyage.

The city was having a ceremony for the USS Juneau with band and presentations. The WWII light cruiser Juneau was sunk at the Battle of Guadalcanal. The 5 Sullivan brothers were on board and were killed. For the brave and tragic story visit the website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Juneau_(CL-52)

Would you believe it—It’s raining! Today, Sunday, July 27, I defrosted the small deep freezer and worked on the blog.

Mark is trying to figure out if we can make it up to Skagway or out to Sitka. I checked on ferries and cars. There are no rental cars available and dogs must be kept in a car or kenneled on the ferry. If we took our boat it would be a long and tricky…and probably rainy. So now the thought is to turn around and head back South were it might be warmer and drier. Tomorrow we are planning on touring the USS Juneau and buying groceries.

Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08

Taku Harbor


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Taku Harbor

The next day, Tueday, July 27, 2008, we dodged gill-netters as we journeyed with the tide to Taku Harbor. We almost got caught in a net, but they hailed us on the VHF radio, and mentioned that we might want to turn off course! Mark was able to sail down-wind half the way to our destination.. We enjoyed talking to the other folks on the public float. There was quite a variety of boats on the dock, including a power cruiser from Florida (came up thru the Panama Canal, a TDF large Swan from Hawaii, and a fish buyer from Wrangell with wife, 4 boys, and a Rhodesian Ridgeback dog.

Sawyer Glacier-closeup

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Petersburg Cannery and Rain

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Kiata at Sawyer Glacier

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Tracy Arm and the Sawyer Glacier

After visiting the gas dock at busy Petersburg, we ventured out, in a squall, for the glaciers of Tracy Arm.

The voyage to Tracy Arm Cove was a relatively short trip, only 20 miles or so. We found a good place to “drop the hook” and the Captain took the pooch to shore. I was stationed on deck for bear watch.

Our friends on Sirena joined out anchorage later that evening.

Sirena left the moorage shortly before we did and we passed them as we headed out for Sawyer Glacier.

We saw several icebergs as we left the harbor. The most beautiful berg was the clear-ice dark blue one, just outside the harbor. I have named him “Big Blue”.( See the photo gallery for more pictures.) http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08

Soon we were weaving in and out of icebergs and being in awe of the sheer rock walls on each side of the channel. We didn’t miss all the icebergs. We could hear the rubbing and knocking the bottom of the hull as we motored onward.

As we approached the head of the arm we could noticeably feel the temperature dropping.

When we got in sight of the face of the glacier we stopped and debated whether to go on through the fiord. The icebergs were increasing in number and moving swiftly through cross currents. Just as be had made the decision to turn around and go back to the harbor, SV Sirena arrived on the scene. We hailed them and ask them how much further they were going. Mary yelled back, “Until we are tired of hearing icebergs hit our aluminum hull!”

That gave us enough courage to sally-forth to our possible demise.

I am so glad we did decide to go on to the full face of the glacier. It was absolutely beautiful….cold but beautiful. The temperature was now around 40 degrees. I was stationed on the bow on “berg watch”. We could hear the loud rumbling of icebergs being born-“calving”. See saw one particularly dramatic calving. We were probably a good mile away at the time. Calving can cause mini Tsunamis, but we did not witness any wave action.
After we had taken 400 pictures and were totally frozen, we turned and started back. Again we passed the slower Sirena. Later we saw her again as she entered the foot of a rainbow. See photos.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Petersburg, Alaska


Wrangell to Petersburg

Wrangell to Petersburg

Visiting Wrangell was very pleasant. It seems to be little affected by the cruise ship business. The smaller cruise ships come into Wrangell but not the behemoths.

The most important store in Wrangell was the City Market, a Western Family grocery store. When a shipment of produce came in it was excellent. The shelves were well stocked with most items one would ever need.

The other grocery store, Bob’s, was less than desirable. I had fresher produce in my ice chest from a week ago.

Reluctantly throwing off the lines we left Wrangell on Monday and did a long motor trip up the tricky Wrangell Narrows to Petersburg. The narrows is where our Dutch friends went on the rocks.

Petersburg is a little bigger than Wrangell and has not accepted the larger cruise ships.
It has a thriving fish industry. There are at least 4 large canneries here. There is always the smell of fish sauce in the air. The North Harbor, were we are docked, is very busy with fishing boats of all sizes coming and going. We are also flanked by two sailboat friends from previous ports.

There is a Norwegian influence here, but not as developed as Leavenworth. The rosemaling designs on the sidewalks, signs, and houses are a nice touch.

Tomorrow we head for Juneau via Tracy Arm. Tracy Arm is an inlet with several marine glaciers. We are a little worried about encountering icebergs. Our acquaintances from Texas said that icebergs jammed their little tour boat in and another boat came to push the bergs out of the way.

We probably will not have phone or Internet service for several days.

Our built-in cd player still isn’t working so I have been ripping our cd collection to be played on my mp3 player and external speakers.

We had a bit of cloud failure yesterday. Today the clouds are weeping in remorse.

Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Got Salmon?


Anan Creek and Black Bear


Mmmmm Good! Alaska Brown Bear-Marine Grizzly


Knock It Off!


Meyers Chuck


What a wonderful day!


Wrangell

Wrangell and Anan Bears

From Ketchikan we ventured north to Wrangell, spending two nights out. The first night was spent at a sweet little fishing village called Meyers Chuck. Everyone was friendly. At 7:30 am a woman came knocking on our hull and asked if we wanted to buy fresh sticky buns. How could we resist. The gooey nut encrusted buns were delicious!

The second night was spent on the hook in Whaletail bay. It is a small bay shaped like a whale’s tail. One half of the bay dries at low tide while the other half makes for a great anchorage.

We are now 830 miles from Chehalis and have been gone 45 days.

Here is what the city guide says of Wranglle, “Wrangell, one of the most historic communities in Alaska, is the only town in the state to have been ruled by four nations: Tlingit, Russia, Britain, and the United States. While it has a wild and unruly past, Wrangell also has the reputation for being the “friendliest little town in Southeast Alaska.”

We are docked at a city run dock and are directly across from the historic Shakes Island. On the tiny island are the old tribal house and several totem poles. I can see four of them as I am typing. When the small cruise ships come into town there are children their selling garnets that they have mined.

There are two good grocery stores here as well as a few good restaurants.

We have had a definite improvement in the weather, although it is not sunny and dry.

Yesterday, we had the privilege of going to Anan Park to see Black and Brown Bears fishing for salmon. We took the jet boat “Alaskan Waters” and went down island for a hour’s ride. Then we hiked in about a half a mile to the bear observatory along the Anan Creek. We felt quite safe as our guide carried a rifle. Ha! It was thrilling to see bears at such a close distance. I took over 200 pictures. I haven’t seen Mark’s photos yet. I have posted “a few” on the Photo Album site: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08

Today, Saturday, we are going to the town museum. I am also going to the library to use their computers for posting and getting my email.

I would like to stay here for several more days but I think the captain is getting antsy to go on north. We will see!

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Agony Bags


Thomas Cove Marina


Back in the USA

We left Prince Rupert on Canada Day, July 1. The skies were sunny as we motored out through the narrow channel, Venna ? Passage, leading to the ocean. The winds were up a little and Mark tried sailing with the main sail for a short while. He describes the rest of the trip as "a lumpy powersail". As the swells and chop got worse, Skipper and I headed for our bunker.

The night was spent in a safe harbor in Brundig Inlet on Dundas Island. The anchorage was very well protected and quiet. The only bad thing about Dundas Island is the tiny flies. We slew quite a few with our electric bug zapper. Captain Mark logged 34 nautical miles for the day.

In the morning, after the dog was rowed to shore and allowed to mark his territory on the beach, Mark lifted anchor and began the journey North. The fog was fairly thick so he relied on the radar for several hours. We reached Ketchikan after 9 hours of motoring. Skipper and I stayed in the bunker-bed until 1pm.

I called the Ketchikan Harbormaster on the VHF and he assigned us to the Thomas Cove Marina. There are not too many pleasure boaters here. Our dock mates from Shearwater, “Bojangles”, was here for a few days. Also, “Thacher” was docked beside us for a few days.

Thomas Cove used to be a ball field. Then they dredged it out. They would call the ball game if the outfielders were knee deep in tidal water.

We checked out Ketchikan on Thursday. Everyone was preparing for the big Fourth of July celebration. Our moorage is in old part of town that his now been turned into cute shops and museums.

Parade Day. Walking up to downtown for the parade required rain suits. We found a good place to watch the parade and waited. It stopped raining just for the parade! What fun to see the entire town in the parade with 10,000 tourists, from 4 cruise ships, watching the parade.

As we were leaving to catch the bus for Safeway a young local fisherman gave us a whole side of King salmon. I had bought a piece of salmon in Prince Rupert for $17.00 CAN a pound. This is the 2nd time someone has given us fish!

The Safeway here is excellent! It is perhaps one of the best Safeways I have ever seen. We gathered lunch there from their wonderful salad bar. Their dining area had of view of the mountains and sea. If you know me at all, you know that I am a grocery store snob.

The wind is picking up with gusts to 25mph…sounds like more. I am glad we are not out on the water today.

We have had a least 2 inches of rain in 24 hours! Tonight the rain is HEAVY...1/4 inch in 2 hours.

We are thinking of heading for Wrangle tomorrow....rain or shine.

New photos on our blog at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08