Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Ocean Falls to Port Hardy
Ocean Falls is a ghost town. It was once a booming pulp mill town of 5,00 until the 70’s.
The province, unwilling to lose the jobs, tried to run it. On May 31, 1980, it too gave up. The mill’s machinery was removed and in 1986 bulldozers came to level the town. The town’s residents stood in front if the bulldozers and backed them down, though not until many of the buildings had been destroyed.
40 people live in nearby Martin Valley. The dam and power plant still provide electricity for three communities. There is a large fish farm on the far side of the bay by the old sawmill. There is a effort to sell the old mill and part of the mill has be painted blue.
The dock was busy with folks getting ready for the Yacht Club Fishing Derby the next day. We were invited to the pre-derby potluck at The Shack (dock office). I got there a little late and just sat and listened to them talk. It was quite a cultural experience. The whole event reminded me of the Red Green Show. There were questions about what tackle to use for salmon, firearms on boats, and bears.
One local fellow told how to protect yourself from bear attacks: 1. Wear a “bear bell”, 2. Carry bear spray, and 3. Know how to tell Black Bear scat from Grizzly Bear scat. (Black Bear scat is dark and has berry seeds in it. Grizzly Bear scat has bearbells in it and smells like bear spray). Big laughs.
Actually there was a bear on our dock that night. The black bear had gone onto a boat further up the dock from us and was shooed away. We had heard some knocking and scratching on our boat but assumed it was just the wind.
The next day was mostly sunny as we walked around the ghost town and took pictures. When I think of a ghost town I think of old wooden buildings and dirt streets. This town was certainly different with its modern structures.
We bought tickets to the Derby BBQ that evening and enjoyed talking to local people, including charming “Almost Normal Norman Brown”, and folks on holiday. An older lady from the Okanagan won the grand prize of $500 for the largest salmon…15.75 pounds. She and her husband grow grapes for Popular Grove Winery in Naramata, BC. They used to grow apples and other fruit but are finding grape growing is easier and much more profitable.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
The next day we continued on south to beautiful Fury Bay. It was the prettiest anchorage so far. It had lovely shell beaches, rocks and vistas. I wish we could have stayed longer but my shoulder needs to be looked at and we need to get a better sling for my arm. #$$%%^*&%
Mark enjoyed the crossing of Queen Channel. He even had the main up for a while. At our anchorage in the Walker Group, he and Skipper had a hard time getting to shore because of the kelp and mud.
Then it was on to Port Hardy—their ER is open on Tuesdays, Port McNeil’s on Wednesday. We ended up going across the street to a medical clinic because it was A WHOLE LOT cheaper. We were seen right away by Dr. Khan. He thinks I just have an inflammation of the rotator cuff. We got RX, a shoulder brace, and a sling at the local Rexall. I though the fees for this office were interesting. The older you are the more it cost! I was in the next highest group!
The province, unwilling to lose the jobs, tried to run it. On May 31, 1980, it too gave up. The mill’s machinery was removed and in 1986 bulldozers came to level the town. The town’s residents stood in front if the bulldozers and backed them down, though not until many of the buildings had been destroyed.
40 people live in nearby Martin Valley. The dam and power plant still provide electricity for three communities. There is a large fish farm on the far side of the bay by the old sawmill. There is a effort to sell the old mill and part of the mill has be painted blue.
The dock was busy with folks getting ready for the Yacht Club Fishing Derby the next day. We were invited to the pre-derby potluck at The Shack (dock office). I got there a little late and just sat and listened to them talk. It was quite a cultural experience. The whole event reminded me of the Red Green Show. There were questions about what tackle to use for salmon, firearms on boats, and bears.
One local fellow told how to protect yourself from bear attacks: 1. Wear a “bear bell”, 2. Carry bear spray, and 3. Know how to tell Black Bear scat from Grizzly Bear scat. (Black Bear scat is dark and has berry seeds in it. Grizzly Bear scat has bearbells in it and smells like bear spray). Big laughs.
Actually there was a bear on our dock that night. The black bear had gone onto a boat further up the dock from us and was shooed away. We had heard some knocking and scratching on our boat but assumed it was just the wind.
The next day was mostly sunny as we walked around the ghost town and took pictures. When I think of a ghost town I think of old wooden buildings and dirt streets. This town was certainly different with its modern structures.
We bought tickets to the Derby BBQ that evening and enjoyed talking to local people, including charming “Almost Normal Norman Brown”, and folks on holiday. An older lady from the Okanagan won the grand prize of $500 for the largest salmon…15.75 pounds. She and her husband grow grapes for Popular Grove Winery in Naramata, BC. They used to grow apples and other fruit but are finding grape growing is easier and much more profitable.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
The next day we continued on south to beautiful Fury Bay. It was the prettiest anchorage so far. It had lovely shell beaches, rocks and vistas. I wish we could have stayed longer but my shoulder needs to be looked at and we need to get a better sling for my arm. #$$%%^*&%
Mark enjoyed the crossing of Queen Channel. He even had the main up for a while. At our anchorage in the Walker Group, he and Skipper had a hard time getting to shore because of the kelp and mud.
Then it was on to Port Hardy—their ER is open on Tuesdays, Port McNeil’s on Wednesday. We ended up going across the street to a medical clinic because it was A WHOLE LOT cheaper. We were seen right away by Dr. Khan. He thinks I just have an inflammation of the rotator cuff. We got RX, a shoulder brace, and a sling at the local Rexall. I though the fees for this office were interesting. The older you are the more it cost! I was in the next highest group!
A Tale of Two Dogs
At Shearwater Marina we met a nice couple from Lund/LA. Later we met their two Australian Shepherd dogs, Tehya and Teal. Note their multicolored eyes in the photos. Soon we learned that the dogs on their boat named “Lucky Puppy” are very lucky pups indeed.
A month ago, while hiking with the dogs near Sitka, Art saw a two Grizzlies, a mother and her cub. The Grizzlys made their exit and his dogs tried to round them up. The little female dog was attacked first. Art went back to the dingy to get it untied, then he went back to get the dogs. The little female was gone and the young male dog was in the mouth of the momma Grizzly. He yelled and the bear stood up to her full height—much taller than Art. Art used his bear spray and the bear released the dog as she headed for the woods.
Teal had wounds to his back. Art swooped him up and carried him back to the dinghy. The female dog was not in sight.
Art put his dog in the boat and headed back to their American Tug at anchor. Then his spied Tehya swimming in the icy water. As Art pulled her from the water he noticed that she had bloody wounds to her head and throat.
As Art approached his wife, Chris, on the tug he yelled, “The dogs have been attacked by Grizzlies!” She thought he was joking at first.
They hurried to Sitka where the local vet treated the dogs. The vet said he had lost a dog to a Grizzly about a year ago. The kind vet charged them around $60.00.
We could not tell that the dogs had been through that ordeal. They were running up and down the dock and enjoyed being petted.
Footnote: Sept. 5 The Lucky Puppy tug is here at Blind Channel Marina, just down the dock from us. It is good to see them again.
A month ago, while hiking with the dogs near Sitka, Art saw a two Grizzlies, a mother and her cub. The Grizzlys made their exit and his dogs tried to round them up. The little female dog was attacked first. Art went back to the dingy to get it untied, then he went back to get the dogs. The little female was gone and the young male dog was in the mouth of the momma Grizzly. He yelled and the bear stood up to her full height—much taller than Art. Art used his bear spray and the bear released the dog as she headed for the woods.
Teal had wounds to his back. Art swooped him up and carried him back to the dinghy. The female dog was not in sight.
Art put his dog in the boat and headed back to their American Tug at anchor. Then his spied Tehya swimming in the icy water. As Art pulled her from the water he noticed that she had bloody wounds to her head and throat.
As Art approached his wife, Chris, on the tug he yelled, “The dogs have been attacked by Grizzlies!” She thought he was joking at first.
They hurried to Sitka where the local vet treated the dogs. The vet said he had lost a dog to a Grizzly about a year ago. The kind vet charged them around $60.00.
We could not tell that the dogs had been through that ordeal. They were running up and down the dock and enjoyed being petted.
Footnote: Sept. 5 The Lucky Puppy tug is here at Blind Channel Marina, just down the dock from us. It is good to see them again.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
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From Prince Rupert to Shearwater
It was warm and sunny as we left Prince Rupert around 11am. As we rounded the industrial area docks we saw the Foss tug boat being loaded with tank cars from a railroad bed. This seems to be a very tricky procedure. A locomotive pushes a line of cars onto the tug. The line is disconnected and the train backs up and the tug re-aligns for the next set of cars. This tug will take the tank cars up to an area near Valdez, Alaska
One of the crew from the tug recognized us and yelled, “Chehalis?” I answered, “Yep!”
Between Pitt Island and Banks Island we witnessed an amazing humpback whale display. The whales were feeding along a cliff not far from us. Wow!
Captains Cove Pitt Island Aug 21 Sunny afternoon had to set hook twice. There was no one else in our little back cove. One other boat was in the outer cove. The weather held in the morning as we continued our journey.
Monckton Inlet Pitt Island Aug 22 23 Hearing that the weather was going to change for the worse, we looked for the best place around to set the anchor. Monckton Inlet was reported to be “bomb proof”. “Bomb proof” means that if the wind blows there will be little if any wave action to knock you around. Monckton proved to be bomb proof but man, did the wind blow. Just before dark we saw a small water spout whiz by our boat! All night long we could hear things going “bump” and the wind howling through the rigging. We survived the night with the anchor holding well. The VHF radio weather gave reports of 50mph winds and 4 meter seas on the outside.
The next day was spent there as we watched the rain. Our leak in the electrical panel spread to the master bedroom. I discovered that my books and clothes were getting wet and water was dripping down from the ledge on the ceiling.
We stayed in the anchorage for another night. The second night there was quieter but the rain was relentless.
(Some of joy of the trip is being taken away by the pain in my shoulder. The ships doctor thinks it is an inflammation and I should take Aleve and keep my arm in a sling. The mean arm pain takes my mind off my lower back pain.)
After a bumpy sail, (waves coming over the bow kind of bumpy sail) the next night was a windy night at Union Passage Lagoon. The anchor held nicely. In the morning it looked like water was once again accumulating in the space beneath the anchor well. We will have to take everything out of the V-berth and bail it out. Mark had caulked around in there a couple of weeks ago. At least our boat only leaks on the top!
Our fifth night out we were at the dock at collapsing Butedale. It was blustery and wet when we arrived. Lou and his dog, Burton, were there to greet us. Skipper and Burton get along very well.
It doesn’t look like Lou has done anything to the place since we were there a month and a half ago, except chop firewood.
Although I hadn’t been off the boat for 4 days, I stayed on board because of the wet.
Klemtu Aug 25 and 26
Klemtu is a nice Native Town with a band store (Grocery store and a coffee shop)
Foul weather threatened again and we spent two rainy days at Klemtu on the Government Dock. The first morning we had breakfast at the band store coffee shop. The restaurant is definitely not a fancy place but more than adequate. We enjoyed talking to a native man, Francis, about how to look to nature and predict the weather. The little gulls in the harbor were all hunkered down and had their beaks pointing into the wind. You don’t have to be a meteorologist to know the weather is nasty.
It seemed to the captain that the big blows had exhausted their selves over night and it was safe to venture out again. We left Klemtu around 9:30 after quick breakfast of fruit, yogurt, and cereal. After clearing Cone Island we entered the Finlaysian Channel. The seas were up but “not bad” according to the Captain.
We cut across the Channel to the Percival Narrows. This passage contains an S curve at the end. Boats over 70 feet have difficulty making the turns.
After clearing the Narrows we were in the unprotected waters with 3-meter seas. That’s 12 foot swells and waves to you landlubbers. Skipper and I headed for cover and the brave captain sallied forth into the Mattison Channel. After a few hours of battering, we entered the quieter waters of Reed Passage. Around 5pm we reached our destination of Shearwater Marina.
Our landing was not graceful as the winds pushed us VERY close to an Oyster, a beautiful custom sailboat. Three guys hopped on the Oyster to fend us off.
This is our first “civilization” in about a week. Note: Some say that our Wauquiez is a “Poorman’s Oyster”.
We will do our laundry tomorrow, buy groceries, do cleaning, and bail the v-berth.
(Leak update 8-28-08-the space beneath the anchor locker is dry!)
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
One of the crew from the tug recognized us and yelled, “Chehalis?” I answered, “Yep!”
Between Pitt Island and Banks Island we witnessed an amazing humpback whale display. The whales were feeding along a cliff not far from us. Wow!
Captains Cove Pitt Island Aug 21 Sunny afternoon had to set hook twice. There was no one else in our little back cove. One other boat was in the outer cove. The weather held in the morning as we continued our journey.
Monckton Inlet Pitt Island Aug 22 23 Hearing that the weather was going to change for the worse, we looked for the best place around to set the anchor. Monckton Inlet was reported to be “bomb proof”. “Bomb proof” means that if the wind blows there will be little if any wave action to knock you around. Monckton proved to be bomb proof but man, did the wind blow. Just before dark we saw a small water spout whiz by our boat! All night long we could hear things going “bump” and the wind howling through the rigging. We survived the night with the anchor holding well. The VHF radio weather gave reports of 50mph winds and 4 meter seas on the outside.
The next day was spent there as we watched the rain. Our leak in the electrical panel spread to the master bedroom. I discovered that my books and clothes were getting wet and water was dripping down from the ledge on the ceiling.
We stayed in the anchorage for another night. The second night there was quieter but the rain was relentless.
(Some of joy of the trip is being taken away by the pain in my shoulder. The ships doctor thinks it is an inflammation and I should take Aleve and keep my arm in a sling. The mean arm pain takes my mind off my lower back pain.)
After a bumpy sail, (waves coming over the bow kind of bumpy sail) the next night was a windy night at Union Passage Lagoon. The anchor held nicely. In the morning it looked like water was once again accumulating in the space beneath the anchor well. We will have to take everything out of the V-berth and bail it out. Mark had caulked around in there a couple of weeks ago. At least our boat only leaks on the top!
Our fifth night out we were at the dock at collapsing Butedale. It was blustery and wet when we arrived. Lou and his dog, Burton, were there to greet us. Skipper and Burton get along very well.
It doesn’t look like Lou has done anything to the place since we were there a month and a half ago, except chop firewood.
Although I hadn’t been off the boat for 4 days, I stayed on board because of the wet.
Klemtu Aug 25 and 26
Klemtu is a nice Native Town with a band store (Grocery store and a coffee shop)
Foul weather threatened again and we spent two rainy days at Klemtu on the Government Dock. The first morning we had breakfast at the band store coffee shop. The restaurant is definitely not a fancy place but more than adequate. We enjoyed talking to a native man, Francis, about how to look to nature and predict the weather. The little gulls in the harbor were all hunkered down and had their beaks pointing into the wind. You don’t have to be a meteorologist to know the weather is nasty.
It seemed to the captain that the big blows had exhausted their selves over night and it was safe to venture out again. We left Klemtu around 9:30 after quick breakfast of fruit, yogurt, and cereal. After clearing Cone Island we entered the Finlaysian Channel. The seas were up but “not bad” according to the Captain.
We cut across the Channel to the Percival Narrows. This passage contains an S curve at the end. Boats over 70 feet have difficulty making the turns.
After clearing the Narrows we were in the unprotected waters with 3-meter seas. That’s 12 foot swells and waves to you landlubbers. Skipper and I headed for cover and the brave captain sallied forth into the Mattison Channel. After a few hours of battering, we entered the quieter waters of Reed Passage. Around 5pm we reached our destination of Shearwater Marina.
Our landing was not graceful as the winds pushed us VERY close to an Oyster, a beautiful custom sailboat. Three guys hopped on the Oyster to fend us off.
This is our first “civilization” in about a week. Note: Some say that our Wauquiez is a “Poorman’s Oyster”.
We will do our laundry tomorrow, buy groceries, do cleaning, and bail the v-berth.
(Leak update 8-28-08-the space beneath the anchor locker is dry!)
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
We are Leaving Prince Rupert
It is Wednesday and the storm has passed.
The dock is still very bumpy and rolly. Our slip isn't as bad a the outside slips. That dock looked like Galloping Gertie with its pitch and roll. I got seasickk just walking on it.
We were fortunate to eat at the Cow Bay Cafe again. We had lunch there yesterday. The chef has won numerous awards. She has no formal training, only cooking for her family and their critiques. If I were to be here for any amount of time, I would beg to work in her kitchen and learn from her.
The Captain says we are heading out today for Ocean Falls. It is a very small town near Bella Coola with a beautiful waterfall.
I got my internet Skype Phone working and have been making cheaper phone calls now. I even made a call to a friend in Guam for .21 a minute.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
The dock is still very bumpy and rolly. Our slip isn't as bad a the outside slips. That dock looked like Galloping Gertie with its pitch and roll. I got seasickk just walking on it.
We were fortunate to eat at the Cow Bay Cafe again. We had lunch there yesterday. The chef has won numerous awards. She has no formal training, only cooking for her family and their critiques. If I were to be here for any amount of time, I would beg to work in her kitchen and learn from her.
The Captain says we are heading out today for Ocean Falls. It is a very small town near Bella Coola with a beautiful waterfall.
I got my internet Skype Phone working and have been making cheaper phone calls now. I even made a call to a friend in Guam for .21 a minute.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Monday, August 18, 2008
Prince Rupert Once More
August 14, we pulled out of Ketchikan-in a drizzle.
We sailed a while until the wind died then motored on to sweet little Meyers Chuck. Again, at 7:30, we were awakened by loud knocking on the hull of the boat, by the Sticky Bun Lady. It was a delicious but rude awakening.
The rain had abated as we continued on to Foggy Bay for a quite night on the hook. We were joined by an old power multihull and a red fishing boat. The rigging on the fishing boat made a perfect X.
Saturday was very foggy as we left our little harbor and headed out to the dreaded Dixon Entrance. We would not have been able to go on without the radar. The sun eventually burned through and we were treated to the beautiful scenery that we had miss the first time we traveled through the area. After 8 hours of motoring we were at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club for our reserved slip. We were lucky to get a slip there the last time so I called ahead as we left Ketchikan.
Amazingly I was able to get cell phone calls while out on the ocean. My cousin in Maryland called to wish me happy birthday. Also Mike and his kids called and sang, “Happy Birthday.” When I got on the Internet at port, Sandy and others had emailed me birthday greetings.
We ate at the tiny Cow Bay Café for my birthday dinner. They were absolutely the best meals yet. Everything is prepared from scratch. The beautifully presented food was delicious.
Sunday, Mark worked on drying out the boat while I walked into town for a bit of shopping.
I made Sockeye Salmon, Yukon Gold baby potatoes-refried in butter, and cole salw for dinner. We had leftover Gingerbread Cake with rum sauce and whipped cream for dessert.
We enjoyed talking to a young Amish couple tonight on the dock. They had traveled by train from Michigan. Tomorrow they take the ferry to Alaska. They said that this is their honeymoon trip. Mark has read two books about the Amish this summer so he had a lot of questions to ask them. The woman said that they did not have raingear. He, Joe, said that was all right because they will just stay on their cabin if it rains. She, Edna May, seemed happy to receive my old Helly Hanson rain parka.
Don't know if we will sail away tomorrow or not. Guess the morning will tell us.
Check out new photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
It may will be a while before I will be able to blog next because we will be in the back channels untill we get to Port Hardy.
We sailed a while until the wind died then motored on to sweet little Meyers Chuck. Again, at 7:30, we were awakened by loud knocking on the hull of the boat, by the Sticky Bun Lady. It was a delicious but rude awakening.
The rain had abated as we continued on to Foggy Bay for a quite night on the hook. We were joined by an old power multihull and a red fishing boat. The rigging on the fishing boat made a perfect X.
Saturday was very foggy as we left our little harbor and headed out to the dreaded Dixon Entrance. We would not have been able to go on without the radar. The sun eventually burned through and we were treated to the beautiful scenery that we had miss the first time we traveled through the area. After 8 hours of motoring we were at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club for our reserved slip. We were lucky to get a slip there the last time so I called ahead as we left Ketchikan.
Amazingly I was able to get cell phone calls while out on the ocean. My cousin in Maryland called to wish me happy birthday. Also Mike and his kids called and sang, “Happy Birthday.” When I got on the Internet at port, Sandy and others had emailed me birthday greetings.
We ate at the tiny Cow Bay Café for my birthday dinner. They were absolutely the best meals yet. Everything is prepared from scratch. The beautifully presented food was delicious.
Sunday, Mark worked on drying out the boat while I walked into town for a bit of shopping.
I made Sockeye Salmon, Yukon Gold baby potatoes-refried in butter, and cole salw for dinner. We had leftover Gingerbread Cake with rum sauce and whipped cream for dessert.
We enjoyed talking to a young Amish couple tonight on the dock. They had traveled by train from Michigan. Tomorrow they take the ferry to Alaska. They said that this is their honeymoon trip. Mark has read two books about the Amish this summer so he had a lot of questions to ask them. The woman said that they did not have raingear. He, Joe, said that was all right because they will just stay on their cabin if it rains. She, Edna May, seemed happy to receive my old Helly Hanson rain parka.
Don't know if we will sail away tomorrow or not. Guess the morning will tell us.
Check out new photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
It may will be a while before I will be able to blog next because we will be in the back channels untill we get to Port Hardy.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Ketchikan Revisted
We have been here in Ketchikan for 3 days, trying to recover from all that sun in Wrangell!
Our neighbor at the dock showed us his raingauge for the last 24 hours--4 inches. Believe me it rains alot here...sorry if I had mentioned that before.
There are still some leaks on the boat. The latest was the v-berth head. It was rapidly taking in sea water (clean). Mark used an old repair kit and replaced the "flapper".
We celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary last night at Annabells Restaurant. Wonderful.
Limited internet time here so I will post pics when we get to Prince Rupert in about a week.
Our neighbor at the dock showed us his raingauge for the last 24 hours--4 inches. Believe me it rains alot here...sorry if I had mentioned that before.
There are still some leaks on the boat. The latest was the v-berth head. It was rapidly taking in sea water (clean). Mark used an old repair kit and replaced the "flapper".
We celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary last night at Annabells Restaurant. Wonderful.
Limited internet time here so I will post pics when we get to Prince Rupert in about a week.
Saturday, August 9, 2008
Back to Wrangell
Tuesday,the 5th of August, we pulled out of Deception Point Bay mid-morning and continued south for the little town of Wrangle. The weather continued to improve and by the time we reached Wrangle (less than 4 hours) summer had begun.
Women and children had donned their tank tops and sundresses. Men were wearing their rolled down or clog style gumboots and had discarded their hooded sweatshirts. It was High Summer!
I had several opportunities to photograph totems in bright sunlight!
Wednesday we cleaned the boat, did laundry, and worked on solving some mechanical problems. That day, one problem was solved-the outboard motor was probably over filled with oil and that caused it to balk at starting. The remaining problem, the non-charging house batteries, stayed unsolved until a mechanic was called the next day.
I had met a guy on the dock who was restoring an old Gulf 32 for a friend. He thought he might be able to help with the electrical problem. It turns out that he is a college professor at James Madison in Virginia. (My nephew graduated from there 3 years ago.) Gary has a book of photography coming out next spring on the volcanoes of Alaska. He used his voltmeter on the system but couldn’t figure out the cause of the problem.
Andrea, Gary’s daughter, flew in that evening from Virginia. She is a college student at William and Mary.
The next day, with sunny weather continuing, Andrea and I went out to Petroglyph Beach to photograph and beachcomb. I found a bag-full of sea glass, an antique button, and an excellent polished agate. Mark had called a mechanic so he stayed at the boat. Andrea is an aspiring opera singer and FBI adgent.
The mechanic showed up after we got back and found the problem but didn’t have the parts to fix it. Mark did a bypass on the bad “isolator” and now we are in good shape until we can get a replacement.
Yesterday, Mark felt like he needed a “decompression” day so we took the dog up to Petroglyph Beach for our day off. Skipper had a great time bugging French tourists picnicking. Again I found lots of sea glass and another button.
Now, we are going to leave my favorite Alaskan town, and head down to Ketchikan.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Women and children had donned their tank tops and sundresses. Men were wearing their rolled down or clog style gumboots and had discarded their hooded sweatshirts. It was High Summer!
I had several opportunities to photograph totems in bright sunlight!
Wednesday we cleaned the boat, did laundry, and worked on solving some mechanical problems. That day, one problem was solved-the outboard motor was probably over filled with oil and that caused it to balk at starting. The remaining problem, the non-charging house batteries, stayed unsolved until a mechanic was called the next day.
I had met a guy on the dock who was restoring an old Gulf 32 for a friend. He thought he might be able to help with the electrical problem. It turns out that he is a college professor at James Madison in Virginia. (My nephew graduated from there 3 years ago.) Gary has a book of photography coming out next spring on the volcanoes of Alaska. He used his voltmeter on the system but couldn’t figure out the cause of the problem.
Andrea, Gary’s daughter, flew in that evening from Virginia. She is a college student at William and Mary.
The next day, with sunny weather continuing, Andrea and I went out to Petroglyph Beach to photograph and beachcomb. I found a bag-full of sea glass, an antique button, and an excellent polished agate. Mark had called a mechanic so he stayed at the boat. Andrea is an aspiring opera singer and FBI adgent.
The mechanic showed up after we got back and found the problem but didn’t have the parts to fix it. Mark did a bypass on the bad “isolator” and now we are in good shape until we can get a replacement.
Yesterday, Mark felt like he needed a “decompression” day so we took the dog up to Petroglyph Beach for our day off. Skipper had a great time bugging French tourists picnicking. Again I found lots of sea glass and another button.
Now, we are going to leave my favorite Alaskan town, and head down to Ketchikan.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Petersburg-again
So it is South we go.
We left Juneau three days ago as the sun was trying to shine. It failed. Again we faced the Douglas Bridge, this time clearing by at least a foot. See the video on the gallery site. It is rated PG-13 for language. Sorry about the orientation.
I had adjusted the ISO on my camera because so many of my pictures were dark. Most of the last two day’s pictures are bright but grainy. There is always a trade-off.
The first night out of Juneau we revisited Taku Harbor. The same fishing tender, The Island Dancer, was docked there again. This time the 4 boys were jumping off the boat and the dock into the water. The dad came out and yelled, “Bear”. Everyone looked down the shore and saw a big black bear near the water.
There was a group of people at the picnic table along the shore. They got up and looked down the shore to see what all the shouting was about and then calmly went back to their dinner. The black bear was just 400 yards from their table.
Later we found out that they were Italian and only spoke a little English. They didn’t understand, “bear”. They wanted to see my photos of the bear when they found out what had happened. All six of them, two couples and two guys, came aboard Kiata to see the pictures. I transferred the grainy pictures to their memory stick. I have since restored my ISO setting to finer grain.
The next night we went to the State Dock in Entrance Harbor. No bears, no bergs, just a drunk lighthouse keeper on leave, and a nice couple from Victoria with their furry dog, “Missy.”
Last night was spent on the hook at Portage Bay. It was very scenic, dark, and quite.
Today, as we continued on to Petersburg, Mark had a chance to put the sails up for a while.
Tonight we are at the southern dock in Petersburg. It is newer and has a lot less activity. The sun was able to cast shadows today but then retreated behind the clouds.
“Life on a boat is a fluid situation.”
Earlier in the week I had noticed that some of the bags in the V-berth were moldy and began to pull everything out of there. The sides above the mattress were covered with mold and everything touching them was moldy. Wonderful.
The source of the problem seems to be a recurrence of the leak in the anchor locker. We had it “fixed” last spring. Mark removed three buckets of salt water from the space under the bed. Now besides the clean up, there will have to be another repair. All the stuff that was stored in that berth is now in our spare head (bathroom), and the moldy stuff bagged for the laundry.
Today, Saturday, August 02, 2008 we woke up to bright sunlight! And now at 6pm in the evening, I can say that it hasn’t rained all day!
We left Juneau three days ago as the sun was trying to shine. It failed. Again we faced the Douglas Bridge, this time clearing by at least a foot. See the video on the gallery site. It is rated PG-13 for language. Sorry about the orientation.
I had adjusted the ISO on my camera because so many of my pictures were dark. Most of the last two day’s pictures are bright but grainy. There is always a trade-off.
The first night out of Juneau we revisited Taku Harbor. The same fishing tender, The Island Dancer, was docked there again. This time the 4 boys were jumping off the boat and the dock into the water. The dad came out and yelled, “Bear”. Everyone looked down the shore and saw a big black bear near the water.
There was a group of people at the picnic table along the shore. They got up and looked down the shore to see what all the shouting was about and then calmly went back to their dinner. The black bear was just 400 yards from their table.
Later we found out that they were Italian and only spoke a little English. They didn’t understand, “bear”. They wanted to see my photos of the bear when they found out what had happened. All six of them, two couples and two guys, came aboard Kiata to see the pictures. I transferred the grainy pictures to their memory stick. I have since restored my ISO setting to finer grain.
The next night we went to the State Dock in Entrance Harbor. No bears, no bergs, just a drunk lighthouse keeper on leave, and a nice couple from Victoria with their furry dog, “Missy.”
Last night was spent on the hook at Portage Bay. It was very scenic, dark, and quite.
Today, as we continued on to Petersburg, Mark had a chance to put the sails up for a while.
Tonight we are at the southern dock in Petersburg. It is newer and has a lot less activity. The sun was able to cast shadows today but then retreated behind the clouds.
“Life on a boat is a fluid situation.”
Earlier in the week I had noticed that some of the bags in the V-berth were moldy and began to pull everything out of there. The sides above the mattress were covered with mold and everything touching them was moldy. Wonderful.
The source of the problem seems to be a recurrence of the leak in the anchor locker. We had it “fixed” last spring. Mark removed three buckets of salt water from the space under the bed. Now besides the clean up, there will have to be another repair. All the stuff that was stored in that berth is now in our spare head (bathroom), and the moldy stuff bagged for the laundry.
Today, Saturday, August 02, 2008 we woke up to bright sunlight! And now at 6pm in the evening, I can say that it hasn’t rained all day!
Our Last Day in Juneau
The tour of the USS Juneau was magnificent. After standing in line for 45 minutes and making new friends, we were divided into groups of 18 and taken aboard the ship. This USS Juneau is a troop carrier and beach landing ship. Most of the lower haul is a large open space holding at least one HUGE hovercraft. The bow door opens to allow the hovercraft to take troops and equipment ashore. We toured the bridge, radar room, mess and most of the decks. There was a lot of going up and down on steep ladders! The ship is headed down to San Diego for mothballing. At the end of the tour I felt like I was ready for mothballing!
We saw our tall sailor friend from Phoenix later in the day. The town “adopted” all the crew and entertained them. He was enjoying his visit to Juneau and thankful he was not in Phoenix with the 118-degree heat.
After another delicious meal at the Hanger and some shopping we went back to the boat for a good nap. Then the decision to not try to go any further north and head for warmer and drier climates to the south.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
We saw our tall sailor friend from Phoenix later in the day. The town “adopted” all the crew and entertained them. He was enjoying his visit to Juneau and thankful he was not in Phoenix with the 118-degree heat.
After another delicious meal at the Hanger and some shopping we went back to the boat for a good nap. Then the decision to not try to go any further north and head for warmer and drier climates to the south.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Monday, July 28, 2008
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Juneau
Wednesday found us motoring up through the Gastineau Channel to Juneau, where we found a slip at Harris Harbor just north of town and beyond the Doughlas Bridge (Whew—that was a close one!). Sirena came in later in the afternoon. We had a good time visiting aboard their boat.
Of course it has been raining a bit. We trudged to the Laundromat in a downpour. We bagged our clean and dry laundry in plastic bags for the home trip.( I am putting a small plastic bag over my purse on these weepy days.)
Juneau is small and isolated for a state capitol but it has a few things going for it. Its setting is gorgeous between the channel and several high mountains. The big cruise ships come here.
On Saturday, an overcast but not rainy day, we took the bus downtown and then the tram up to Mt. Roberts. We had a good time viewing the visitor’s center and hiking the alpine trails. As we were descending the mountain we could see the USS Juneau coming into port with seamen in their dress white standing on the decks of the ship.
We stopped for dinner at the Hanger Restaurant before walking up to see the ship. On the way to the Coast Guard Pier we spied out Dutch friends at a neighboring dock! They had all the necessary repairs done in Wrangell and were now continuing their voyage.
The city was having a ceremony for the USS Juneau with band and presentations. The WWII light cruiser Juneau was sunk at the Battle of Guadalcanal. The 5 Sullivan brothers were on board and were killed. For the brave and tragic story visit the website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Juneau_(CL-52)
Would you believe it—It’s raining! Today, Sunday, July 27, I defrosted the small deep freezer and worked on the blog.
Mark is trying to figure out if we can make it up to Skagway or out to Sitka. I checked on ferries and cars. There are no rental cars available and dogs must be kept in a car or kenneled on the ferry. If we took our boat it would be a long and tricky…and probably rainy. So now the thought is to turn around and head back South were it might be warmer and drier. Tomorrow we are planning on touring the USS Juneau and buying groceries.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Of course it has been raining a bit. We trudged to the Laundromat in a downpour. We bagged our clean and dry laundry in plastic bags for the home trip.( I am putting a small plastic bag over my purse on these weepy days.)
Juneau is small and isolated for a state capitol but it has a few things going for it. Its setting is gorgeous between the channel and several high mountains. The big cruise ships come here.
On Saturday, an overcast but not rainy day, we took the bus downtown and then the tram up to Mt. Roberts. We had a good time viewing the visitor’s center and hiking the alpine trails. As we were descending the mountain we could see the USS Juneau coming into port with seamen in their dress white standing on the decks of the ship.
We stopped for dinner at the Hanger Restaurant before walking up to see the ship. On the way to the Coast Guard Pier we spied out Dutch friends at a neighboring dock! They had all the necessary repairs done in Wrangell and were now continuing their voyage.
The city was having a ceremony for the USS Juneau with band and presentations. The WWII light cruiser Juneau was sunk at the Battle of Guadalcanal. The 5 Sullivan brothers were on board and were killed. For the brave and tragic story visit the website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Juneau_(CL-52)
Would you believe it—It’s raining! Today, Sunday, July 27, I defrosted the small deep freezer and worked on the blog.
Mark is trying to figure out if we can make it up to Skagway or out to Sitka. I checked on ferries and cars. There are no rental cars available and dogs must be kept in a car or kenneled on the ferry. If we took our boat it would be a long and tricky…and probably rainy. So now the thought is to turn around and head back South were it might be warmer and drier. Tomorrow we are planning on touring the USS Juneau and buying groceries.
Check out photo albums at: http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Taku Harbor
The next day, Tueday, July 27, 2008, we dodged gill-netters as we journeyed with the tide to Taku Harbor. We almost got caught in a net, but they hailed us on the VHF radio, and mentioned that we might want to turn off course! Mark was able to sail down-wind half the way to our destination.. We enjoyed talking to the other folks on the public float. There was quite a variety of boats on the dock, including a power cruiser from Florida (came up thru the Panama Canal, a TDF large Swan from Hawaii, and a fish buyer from Wrangell with wife, 4 boys, and a Rhodesian Ridgeback dog.
Tracy Arm and the Sawyer Glacier
After visiting the gas dock at busy Petersburg, we ventured out, in a squall, for the glaciers of Tracy Arm.
The voyage to Tracy Arm Cove was a relatively short trip, only 20 miles or so. We found a good place to “drop the hook” and the Captain took the pooch to shore. I was stationed on deck for bear watch.
Our friends on Sirena joined out anchorage later that evening.
Sirena left the moorage shortly before we did and we passed them as we headed out for Sawyer Glacier.
We saw several icebergs as we left the harbor. The most beautiful berg was the clear-ice dark blue one, just outside the harbor. I have named him “Big Blue”.( See the photo gallery for more pictures.) http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Soon we were weaving in and out of icebergs and being in awe of the sheer rock walls on each side of the channel. We didn’t miss all the icebergs. We could hear the rubbing and knocking the bottom of the hull as we motored onward.
As we approached the head of the arm we could noticeably feel the temperature dropping.
When we got in sight of the face of the glacier we stopped and debated whether to go on through the fiord. The icebergs were increasing in number and moving swiftly through cross currents. Just as be had made the decision to turn around and go back to the harbor, SV Sirena arrived on the scene. We hailed them and ask them how much further they were going. Mary yelled back, “Until we are tired of hearing icebergs hit our aluminum hull!”
That gave us enough courage to sally-forth to our possible demise.
I am so glad we did decide to go on to the full face of the glacier. It was absolutely beautiful….cold but beautiful. The temperature was now around 40 degrees. I was stationed on the bow on “berg watch”. We could hear the loud rumbling of icebergs being born-“calving”. See saw one particularly dramatic calving. We were probably a good mile away at the time. Calving can cause mini Tsunamis, but we did not witness any wave action.
After we had taken 400 pictures and were totally frozen, we turned and started back. Again we passed the slower Sirena. Later we saw her again as she entered the foot of a rainbow. See photos.
The voyage to Tracy Arm Cove was a relatively short trip, only 20 miles or so. We found a good place to “drop the hook” and the Captain took the pooch to shore. I was stationed on deck for bear watch.
Our friends on Sirena joined out anchorage later that evening.
Sirena left the moorage shortly before we did and we passed them as we headed out for Sawyer Glacier.
We saw several icebergs as we left the harbor. The most beautiful berg was the clear-ice dark blue one, just outside the harbor. I have named him “Big Blue”.( See the photo gallery for more pictures.) http://picasaweb.google.com/kiata.linda08
Soon we were weaving in and out of icebergs and being in awe of the sheer rock walls on each side of the channel. We didn’t miss all the icebergs. We could hear the rubbing and knocking the bottom of the hull as we motored onward.
As we approached the head of the arm we could noticeably feel the temperature dropping.
When we got in sight of the face of the glacier we stopped and debated whether to go on through the fiord. The icebergs were increasing in number and moving swiftly through cross currents. Just as be had made the decision to turn around and go back to the harbor, SV Sirena arrived on the scene. We hailed them and ask them how much further they were going. Mary yelled back, “Until we are tired of hearing icebergs hit our aluminum hull!”
That gave us enough courage to sally-forth to our possible demise.
I am so glad we did decide to go on to the full face of the glacier. It was absolutely beautiful….cold but beautiful. The temperature was now around 40 degrees. I was stationed on the bow on “berg watch”. We could hear the loud rumbling of icebergs being born-“calving”. See saw one particularly dramatic calving. We were probably a good mile away at the time. Calving can cause mini Tsunamis, but we did not witness any wave action.
After we had taken 400 pictures and were totally frozen, we turned and started back. Again we passed the slower Sirena. Later we saw her again as she entered the foot of a rainbow. See photos.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
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